Orchid Growing Tips #5

 Caring
Mar 012010
 

by Susan Taylor
Originally published in BellaOnline

Orthene will prevent thrips. A preventative spraying of Orthene 75%, wettable powder or in aerosol, on maturing flower buds will prevent thirp damage, as well as aphids and ants. If insects are found on the open flowers, the same chemical can be used to eradicate the infestation, without damaging the flowers. Other insecticides WILL damage the flowers and should not be used. Use Orthene spray as recommended on the label. If using the aerosol, spray from at least a foot away from the flowers. In addition, Orthene 75% does not leave any unsightly residue.

Remove dried sheaths from Cattleya Alliance orchids. Always remove the dried sheathing from pseudobulbs to prevent buildup of moisture, and as a hiding place for insects. This also provides more surface for photosynthesis activity. Insects, particularly scale insects, find Cattleya Alliance plants attractive.

Cut open bud sheaths to eliminate flower bud rot. Bud sheaths often collect water insidecausing the new buds to rot. Cut the top off the sheath will to eliminate this problem. Sometimes, a sheath will form without a bud ever forming, or due to breeding some orchids, will form a sheath, then many months later form the flower buds.

Soak used pots in water and bleach to kill viruses and diseases. Recycle used pots by soaking in a strong bleach solution for at least twenty minutes to kill any viruses or diseases. Use ½ cup bleach per gallon of water.

Take problem plants out of their pots and put in an empty clay pot. Water and fertilize as normal. This will force any eyes that are on the plant to grow and make new roots. Then the plant can be repotted. This will save you the time and expense of using mix on a plant that will never make it.

Laelia esalqueana

 Species
Mar 012010
 

by Susan Taylor
Originally published in BellaOnline

Laelia esalqueana is one of the star-shaped Laelias known as “Rupicolus Laelias” due to their unique habitat growing in almost full sun in rocky mountainous terrain, sometimes on the rocks themselves in pockets of poor soil. This species was named in 1973 after the Escola Superior de Agricultura in Brazil where it is found in the state of Sao Paulo.

As may be expected their culture is determined by this habitat. They need a lot of sun, good humidity, and a dry winter rest with only occasional misting and intermediate temperatures with 55 degrees Fahrenheit, or 13 degree Centrigrade, at night and 70 degrees Fahrenheit, or 21 degrees Centigrade, during the day. In their native habitat they will endure much cooler temperatures at night without harm.

These plants are true miniatures, growing to only 3 inches or 8 centimeters high. The two to five bright yellow-gold flowers are held just above the plant on a stout inflorescence for a nice presentation. The plant itself has squat, fat pseudobulbs with thick fleshy leaves all of which provide storage for water in a dry environment. They need a rest after flowering until the new growth starts when watering should be resumed. A drop of temperature at night is almost a requirement to get these little plants to bloom well. Some growers recommend temperatures in the 50 degree Fahrenheit, or 10 degrees Centigrade if normal intermediate temperatures do not induce blooming.

As may be noted from the description of their native habitat, these orchids need high light to flower. They require 2500 to 3500 foot candles of light for at least several hours each day. If you are growing under lights, place them close to the middle of fluorescent lights and only about 4 inches below the lights. The middle of the lights provides the brightest light at the highest intensity.

Laelias are closly related to Cattleyas and they have been extensively interbred with them to produce smaller plants and bright flowers, especially in the yellow flower range. This particular species is one of the parents of a very well known mini-catt called Lc. Jungle Elf ((L. esalqueana x C. aclandiae) and figures in the background of more than 80 hybrids. The small size as well as the nice number of flowers have made this one of the species used extensively in the new breeding for smaller size orchids in the Cattleya alliance.

Staking Orchid Flowers

 Caring
Feb 012010
 

by Susan Taylor
Originally published in BellaOnline

Staking your inflorescences so that the flowers can be presented and shown to their best effect is an art into itself. If you go to an orchid show or society meeting where blooming plants are displayed, you will see all kinds of different staking methods depending upon the type of orchid.

Staking should be started as soon as the inflorescence is about 6 inches, or 15 centimeters, high. Place the stake as close to the bottom of the inflorescence of pseudobulb as possible without damaging roots. Choose a stake that will be appropriate for the flower – heavier stakes are necessary for bigger plants. Metal stakes work best for tall inflorescences such as Oncidiums.

Use clips, twist ties, raffia, or plant tape to hold the inflorescence to the stake. Remember that the inflorescence grows from the tip and that you will need to check the staking on a weekly basis. This is best done in the late afternoon or evening as the plant is at its most pliable then. They can be very brittle and break off easily if you attempt moving and tying in the early morning hours.

Once an inflorescence has started to grow it is best to leave the plant facing the same direction so that you do not get twisting of the stem or flowers. Some growers will put a piece of colored tape on the front of the plant so they know just how to replace the plant if it has to be moved for watering.

Laelia (Cattleya) tenebrosa

 Species
Feb 012010
 

Laelia (Cattleya) tenebrosa is one of the most spectacular of the big Laelias, now moved into the genus Cattleya. It is closely related to Laelia purpurata and Laelia grandis but needs less sun than either of these other plants to flower nicely. If they receive too much sun, the leaves will show reddish spots on the leaves. The species is from Brazil where they flower during the hottest summer months. It is now considered virtually extinct in the wild from over collection and forest destruction. There are many cultivated varieties available although somewhat difficult to find at times.

The large flowers, 8 inches or 20 centimeters in width, are produced two to three, rarely four or five, on an inflorescence and are a golden, bronze, copper or brownish color with a spectacular usually dark pink to deep purple lip. The flower colors are extremely variable so it is a good idea to see a flowering plant before purchasing so you are sure to get a good variety. As you can see from the picture these flowers are very open in nature with space between the sepals and petals.

Like L. purpurata, these can be large plants and will not flower well until they have reached a mature size of approximately 5 pseudobulbs. The leaves are large, approximately 12 inches or 30 centimeters long on top of a pseudobulb the same size and a mature plant will take up a large container. They have a rather nice upright growth habit when potted, so the size is fairly easy to accommodate. They take hot to intermediate temperatures but are much less cold tolerant than the other large Laelias.

This orchid likes more water than other Cattleyas and should not be allowed to dry out completely during peak growing times in the spring. After flowering it needs a dryer environment until it starts new growth. It starts its growth period in the fall and then rests for about a month until it flowers in the spring. The flowers are fairly long lasting for the genus and often last two or three weeks especially if you can keep them out of the hottest summer temperatures.

If you have room and are a fan of the large Cattleya-like flowers, this is definitely one of the plants to try growing. There are many different clones and they are so different that you can grow several different ones and enjoy an almost completely different color on each one.

Winter Orchid Dreaming

 Winter
Jan 012010
 

by Susan Taylor
Originally published in BellaOnline

Orchid growing is somewhat like any other gardening – January and February are very slow months! Unlike outside gardeners in temperate climates, though, we are constrained by the problems of cold weather shipping and delivery rather than the growth of most of the plants we grow. During the coldest months, many growers will take orders for later delivery, but hesitate to ship even with cold packs during the coldest months.

So now is the time for us to look through those catalogs, review what plants we already have and how they’re growing and look seriously at what we might want to grow for the coming year. Each of us has slightly different conditions and some plants grow better than others under those conditions.

What is really doing well for you? If you like them, consider growing more of those kinds of plants. Look through the catalogs and see if you can find similar crosses and the chances are that they will also do well under your conditions.

What is really not doing well? If this is something that you really love and want to grow, then look at your conditions and see if you can change them slightly so that the plants will do better. Until you figure that out, it’s probably better not to buy any more of them.

Is there something new that you want to grow and see if it will do for you? Develop an “Orchid Wish List” to take with you to orchid shows. If they are displayed there, talk to the owner and find out what kind of conditions he or she has to get some idea how that particular orchid likes to grow. Check out pricing from online vendors before you go so that you will have an idea of what you should be willing to pay for a plant. Many times it is less expensive to buy at a show because you’re not paying extra for shipping.

Take some time to clean up your growing area and your plants. Stake new growth and clean up old dry growth. Wipe down leaves to remove residue and dust and allow the plant to better absorb the available light. This will also help remove any pests that have moved into your plants. Make a list of the plants that you are going to need to repot in the spring and make sure that you have the supplies necessary to do so. Buying supplies at this time of year is a good investment. There are generally sales from the vendors who cannot ship plants during the cold months.

Rate Your Growing Skills

 Caring, Orchidophilos
Jan 012010
 

ORCHIDOPHILOS by Tom Sheehan

Frequently I am asked by an orchidist how to tell whether or not he/she is doing a good job of growing his/her plants. Actually, this is a good question, because often times we look at our plants and wonder how well they are thriving, but have nothing for comparison. It is relatively easy to tell whether your plants are up to par or not. Color is always a good positive factor because the intensity of green will vary among genera, with some well grown plants dark green and some almost yellow green. But there is an excellent indicator that everyone can use to evaluate plants.

With sympodial orchids, e.g., Cattleya, Dendrobium, the new growth in mature plants should be equal to or larger than the height of the last growth, while in unflowered seedlings it should always be larger. If the newest growth is smaller, then you are not doing a good job of growing, or the plant may be suffering from soluble salt damage or possibly some pest problem and it is time to do something.

In monopodial orchids e.g., Vanda, Phalaenopsis, the situation is very similar. With these plants the spread of the new leaves should be equal to or greater than the last mature leaf or set of leaves. Again, in seedlings you expect each new leaf to be larger until the plant is mature and flowering, at which time the new leaves should be of equal size from then on. A well grown large strap leaf Vanda plant should have all the leaves the same length so the leaf tips would all touch a stick held perpendicularly to the leaves. I should point out that you are comparing mature leaves, not developing leaves. Consequently, you must be able to recognize the difference for all the genera you are growing. Once you do this the rest is easy.

Another problem that occurs in the fall of the year is the formation of brown papery sheaths on some Cattleya plants. Novices often cut them off, thinking they have lost the flowers, and this is not so. Those species and their hybrids that have the “mossiae” growth cycle, e.g., trianaei, labiata, produce their flowers from within the papery bracts. These plants flower from early fall through May, The other group, known as “gigas” flower in spring and summer while the sheaths are green and succulent. So be careful before you cut off any papery sheaths this fall when checking your plants. Gently squeeze the sheath and you will feel the buds inside.

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