Aug 012010
 

by Susan Taylor
Originally published in BellaOnline

Foliar Fertilizing
During the peak growing months of summer use a foliar fertilizer of very dilute fertilizer with 1/2 teaspoon per gallon soap as a wetting agent so that the fertilizer will stay on the leaves long enough to allow the plant to absorb the nutrients. Be sure to spray early in the morning before the sun gets to the plants and provide excellent air circulation to allow for rapid evaporation to prevent rots. Be very careful with the crowns of Phals and Paphs.

Seal cuts when you trim plants
You can use melted candle wax to seal the cut when you trim back your orchids after blooming or when cutting off old pseudobulbs or leaves. This will completely seal the cut and prevent the introduction of bacterial or fungal diseases. Other ways to seal cuts are cinnamon (without sugar), Elmer’s Glue, and various commercial products.

Be consistent with staking Staking
new growths is one of the most underutilized growing principals in orchid growing. This is a important element in getting your plants to look good and to present your flowers correctly when they open. Stake when the growths are about half done or for larger plants when the growth is about 5 inches, or 12 centimeters, tall. Continue to train the growth to the stake and then include the inflorescence when it appears.

Attaching to stakes
There are many different ways to tie your plant to a stake. For whimsy, use the little insect shaped clips that come in butterfly, dragonfly or other shapes. They should be large enough to hold the growth to thestake without impeding the growth. If you use a clip that’s too small it will damage the new growth. Twist ties will work as well as raffia which can be used to tie together the entire plant for a nice shape.

Mist in the mornings
Misting is great for your plants, but you must be careful to mist early in the day so that your plants have time to completely dry before nightfall. Fans to circulate air will also help deter the growth of fungus as they do not like moving air and it makes it more difficult for the spores to attach.

Rotate your plants to display blooms
Orchids in bloom need less light than those that are developing new growths or are resting. In fact, too much light will fade some flowers. So, when you have a well-developed inflorescence, move your plant further from the light source and toward the front of your area so you can display it and enjoy the flowers more easily. I often put the pot on top of another pot to lift the plant up so that the flowers are closer to eye level.

Jul 012010
 

by Susan Taylor
Originally published in BellaOnline

If you are having trouble growing orchids indoors, especially if you like the tiny ones, you can try growing in a simple fishbowl. My first trial came when I purchased a Masdevallia I couldn’t resist at an orchid show. These are generally rather cool growing orchids and we live in southern Texas where it gets very hot during the summers. Most of my orchids grow in the greenhouse and must be able to survive temperatures up to 100 degrees Fahrenheit or 38 degrees Celsius. Once I got the orchid home I realized that it would never survive outside. Mind you, this is completely against one of the most important orchid tips I espouse: only buy orchids that will grow in your conditions! But it was so cute I simply couldn’t resist.

These little orchids need quite high humidity to grow well so I decided to try growing in a fishbowl near a north window indoors. The ball-like fishbowl was about six or seven inches, or 15-18 centimeters in diameter. I put white gravel in the bottom, about one half inch or 2 centimeters deep, then placed the plant in the middle and then used rainwater to just below the surface to increase humidity. Do not put anything over the top of the container. Your orchids need air circulation as well as high humidity.

The only problem I’ve found with this system is that the plants grow so quickly, and flower so much that I keep having to find larger and larger fish bowls so that the flowers do not stick to the sides. Also watch the leaves to make sure the plant is not getting too much light. The leaves will turn very light green. Try to keep the leaf color about the same as the leaves when you purchased the plant. Do not cut off the inflorescences if they stay green because they will develop new buds on the live growth. I’d recommend finding out how large a plant the orchid will be before starting this project – I’m on my third fishbowl for one of them (I now have three since I had to fill up the empty fishbowls). Garage sales are good sources for glass containers that can be used for this. They’re decorative looking and the orchids love the humidity. Give it a try with one of the great miniature orchids available to orchid growers!

May 012010
 

by Susan Taylor
Originally published in BellaOnline

Grow Native Orchids in Your Garden

Believe it or not, you can grow native orchids in your gardens if you pick out those which grow in your area and you can provide them the right conditions. The most important point to remember is that you should never dig up wild orchids. It is virtually impossible to keep a dug up orchid alive once it is removed from its native environment and when it is done another rare and beautiful plant gets closer to extinction. This is one of the biggest dangers to our native plants. When wild populations are found they are often kept in strict secrecy because of the chance that they will be poached by those who want to sell them. Only buy from reputable dealers and ask to make sure that they are grown from seed in laboratory conditions.

There are a number of nurseries which now grow native orchids from seed to sell to those who can provide them a home. It is hoped that more and more people will become interested in trying to grow these natives so that the gene pool can be expanded and keep the plants from disappearing entirely.

Unlike hybrids which are bred for ease of growing and flowering, it is necessary to do a lot of research into which natives might work in your garden. One of the best groups in North America is Native Orchid Conservation Inc. A very active group with a lot of knowledge is the Slipper Orchid Alliance which has information about the Cypripedium orchids which are one of the most showy and widely distributed of the wild orchids. Australia has a large organization, the Australian Native Orchid Society, which provides information and conservation materials to those interested in their native orchids.

Florida, which has most species of native orchids in the United States, has its own site with information on their native orchids Florida’s Native and Naturalized Orchids and The Florida Native Native Plant Society which has a great database of plants, including orchids, which grow in the various counties in Florida. Many of the descriptions include sources for plants.

If you are both a gardener and an orchid grower, this is a great way to help out our native plants as well as introduce new and interesting plants to your garden. Many orchid societies are working with their state forestry organizations to grow and reintroduce native orchids to locations which have lost their original native populations. Growing these natives is a great way to help out and introduce friends, neighbors and families to the fact that orchids are not only tropical plants.

Mar 012010
 

Mounting Orchids by Annie Mezaros

I was apprehensive to say the least; the first time I decided I wanted to mount one of my orchids. I had realized that none of the directions or advise I had been following to grown my Tolumnia Ralph Yagi were working for me and I had decided upon mounting it as a last ditch effort to save it’s life. I didn’t think I had anything to lose except the plant itself, which was well on its way to plant heaven already. It was the best decision I could have made for that plant and I’m now successfully growing 7 Tolumnias as well as a lot of other miniature orchids on mounts. I do not grow any large plants of slabs, but only because I don’t have the space to hang them anywhere.

Making the decision to mount an orchid if you are a windowsill or under lights grower should take into consideration a number of different factors, such as whether you have enough humidity to keep the slab moist long enough for the roots to absorb water; are you willing and able to commit to watering the mount as often as it may require, even if that turns out to be everyday? Do you have an appropriate place to hang the plant where it will receive sufficient light? If you can provide the humidity (60% or more is ideal), space and commitment; growing orchids this way is very rewarding. Not only does mounting mimic the way orchids plants grow in nature, in many ways it’s actually easier to grow plants this way because you can see the condition of the roots and whether or not the plant needs to be watered. More orchids meet their maker due to the loving application of too much water than any other reason. This takes the guesswork out of whether or not to fetch the watering can.

1) Select the plant to be mounted taking into consideration its growth habit, ie. Does it sprawl out or stay compact, grow quickly or moderately? Does it need to stay moist or dry out quickly?

2) There are many materials you can use to mount your orchid on. The most common mounts used today are tree fern slabs, virgin cork bark and sticks. Paramount has tree fern slabs in various sizes and sticks are easy to come by, but it’s important to make sure to buy any online products from various suppliers in Canada and the US. I have used non-virgin cork bark with good results too. It’s sometimes available at pet stores where reptile supplies are sold. Just be sure to clean the cork very carefully if you buy it from a pet store.

3) Make you decision on what material to use based on what is available to you and the watering needs of the plant. Tree fern stays moist a lot longer than sticks and cork bark. If tree fern is not available, you can still use sticks or cork by attaching some moss under or on top of the roots.

4) Soak the mount and a small amount of moss overnight before using. Be sure to attach wire hooks or other material that will be used to hang the mount up before attaching the plant.

5) Carefully un-pot the plant removing as much growing medium as possible. Remove all dried up or mushy roots with a mild fungicide or dust them lightly with cinnamon if I have done any trimming to prevent rot or infection. Once again taking into consideration the growth habit of your orchid, lay the plant onto the mount, spreading the roots gently out on the surface. If you are using moss place a thin layer either under or on top of the roots. The great thing is that if you decide you have too much moss or too little, you can easily add or remove with little damage or disturbance to the plant. You will need to use some type of material initially to hold the plant onto the mount until the roots grab and hold on naturally.

Some of the things I have seem people use include fishing line, thin strips of nylon hosiery, wire, twist ties, staples, elastic bands, and even hot glue. Whatever you decide to use, just make sure that you don’t tie the roots to the mount so tightly that they are damaged. Use the minimum amount of tie-down that will hold the plant in place. Once the plant is established on the mount, you can remove whatever you used to hold it in place or leave it on if you want.

Don’t forget about the tag! If it doesn’t already have a hole in it, make a hole and using a piece of wire or fishing line, attach it to the mount. I usually hang: from the hook or you can drill a small hole in the mount and thread the wire for the tag through it. Place your newly mounted plant in shadier spot for the first 2 weeks while it adjusts to the new conditions. Water it carefully, making sure it doesn’t stay too wet or too dry. Only you will know through careful observation of the leaves and 6 roots, what is too wet or dry while the plant is getting used to its new growing condition. Then slowly move it every few days closer to its final destination until you have it where you want it to be.

Equitant oncidiums (Tolumnias) are great plants to try mounting for beginners. These plants like to dry out quickly and require a lot less humidity than many other types of orchids. A tip for overgrown mounts is that it’s unwise to even try removing the plant from its mount. It’s easier on both you and the plant to attach the whole works to a new mount in its entirety. The plant will soon cover th edges of the old material anyway. I’ve had some success prying off roots from sticks but I would only attempt to do that when there is plenty of new root growth just commencing.

Mar 012010
 

by Susan Taylor
Originally published in BellaOnline

Orthene will prevent thrips. A preventative spraying of Orthene 75%, wettable powder or in aerosol, on maturing flower buds will prevent thirp damage, as well as aphids and ants. If insects are found on the open flowers, the same chemical can be used to eradicate the infestation, without damaging the flowers. Other insecticides WILL damage the flowers and should not be used. Use Orthene spray as recommended on the label. If using the aerosol, spray from at least a foot away from the flowers. In addition, Orthene 75% does not leave any unsightly residue.

Remove dried sheaths from Cattleya Alliance orchids. Always remove the dried sheathing from pseudobulbs to prevent buildup of moisture, and as a hiding place for insects. This also provides more surface for photosynthesis activity. Insects, particularly scale insects, find Cattleya Alliance plants attractive.

Cut open bud sheaths to eliminate flower bud rot. Bud sheaths often collect water insidecausing the new buds to rot. Cut the top off the sheath will to eliminate this problem. Sometimes, a sheath will form without a bud ever forming, or due to breeding some orchids, will form a sheath, then many months later form the flower buds.

Soak used pots in water and bleach to kill viruses and diseases. Recycle used pots by soaking in a strong bleach solution for at least twenty minutes to kill any viruses or diseases. Use ½ cup bleach per gallon of water.

Take problem plants out of their pots and put in an empty clay pot. Water and fertilize as normal. This will force any eyes that are on the plant to grow and make new roots. Then the plant can be repotted. This will save you the time and expense of using mix on a plant that will never make it.

Feb 012010
 

by Susan Taylor
Originally published in BellaOnline

Staking your inflorescences so that the flowers can be presented and shown to their best effect is an art into itself. If you go to an orchid show or society meeting where blooming plants are displayed, you will see all kinds of different staking methods depending upon the type of orchid.

Staking should be started as soon as the inflorescence is about 6 inches, or 15 centimeters, high. Place the stake as close to the bottom of the inflorescence of pseudobulb as possible without damaging roots. Choose a stake that will be appropriate for the flower – heavier stakes are necessary for bigger plants. Metal stakes work best for tall inflorescences such as Oncidiums.

Use clips, twist ties, raffia, or plant tape to hold the inflorescence to the stake. Remember that the inflorescence grows from the tip and that you will need to check the staking on a weekly basis. This is best done in the late afternoon or evening as the plant is at its most pliable then. They can be very brittle and break off easily if you attempt moving and tying in the early morning hours.

Once an inflorescence has started to grow it is best to leave the plant facing the same direction so that you do not get twisting of the stem or flowers. Some growers will put a piece of colored tape on the front of the plant so they know just how to replace the plant if it has to be moved for watering.

Jan 012010
 

ORCHIDOPHILOS by Tom Sheehan

Frequently I am asked by an orchidist how to tell whether or not he/she is doing a good job of growing his/her plants. Actually, this is a good question, because often times we look at our plants and wonder how well they are thriving, but have nothing for comparison. It is relatively easy to tell whether your plants are up to par or not. Color is always a good positive factor because the intensity of green will vary among genera, with some well grown plants dark green and some almost yellow green. But there is an excellent indicator that everyone can use to evaluate plants.

With sympodial orchids, e.g., Cattleya, Dendrobium, the new growth in mature plants should be equal to or larger than the height of the last growth, while in unflowered seedlings it should always be larger. If the newest growth is smaller, then you are not doing a good job of growing, or the plant may be suffering from soluble salt damage or possibly some pest problem and it is time to do something.

In monopodial orchids e.g., Vanda, Phalaenopsis, the situation is very similar. With these plants the spread of the new leaves should be equal to or greater than the last mature leaf or set of leaves. Again, in seedlings you expect each new leaf to be larger until the plant is mature and flowering, at which time the new leaves should be of equal size from then on. A well grown large strap leaf Vanda plant should have all the leaves the same length so the leaf tips would all touch a stick held perpendicularly to the leaves. I should point out that you are comparing mature leaves, not developing leaves. Consequently, you must be able to recognize the difference for all the genera you are growing. Once you do this the rest is easy.

Another problem that occurs in the fall of the year is the formation of brown papery sheaths on some Cattleya plants. Novices often cut them off, thinking they have lost the flowers, and this is not so. Those species and their hybrids that have the “mossiae” growth cycle, e.g., trianaei, labiata, produce their flowers from within the papery bracts. These plants flower from early fall through May, The other group, known as “gigas” flower in spring and summer while the sheaths are green and succulent. So be careful before you cut off any papery sheaths this fall when checking your plants. Gently squeeze the sheath and you will feel the buds inside.

Oct 012009
 

by Susan Taylor
Originally published in BellaOnline

In general, leaf loss in Cattleya Alliance orchids is not considered to be a major growing problem. Unless you have very good growing conditions and have solved most of your cultural problems, you are going to lose the leaves on the older pseudobulbs of your Cattleyas. It is an exceptional grower who can keep these plants happy enough to produce a specimen plant. That is not to say that the hobby grower cannot do better to reduce leaf loss than the average grower. There are three main reasons for leaf loss: diseases/insects, culture and genetics.

In the diseases and insects category, scale is the main culprits. Scale is easy to spot once you have ever seen it – a grouping of white fuzzy spots. Left untreated scale will overtake a plant and ultimately will kill it. As soon as you see evidence of these pests, remove the plant to a location away from your other plants. Manually clean up any obvious insects or spray the whole plant with Bayer’s Rose and Flower Insect Spray (dual action) which will kill any pests that it touches as well as be absorbed in the plant and will kill adults as well as any sucking insects. Continue to spray for about 3 months.

Cultural practices which will cause leaf loss include overwatering, under-watering and excess cold and or heat. Overwatering will cause the roots on your plants to die off so they cannot support the plant. In an attempt to stay alive, the plant will shed extra leaves and try to keep the new growth alive. If possible, look at the roots of your plants – some growers actually take their plants out of the pots periodically to assess the growth. An old rule of thumb says that if the second oldest pseudobulb (generally from the previous year) is wrinkled and desiccated, you are either under or overwatering. Take your plant out of the pot to see which it is. If the roots are good and plump, then you’re under-watering. If they are all dead and rotten, you have overwatered. Repot and change your culture.

Another cultural practice which will cause leaf drop is very cold temperatures in the winter and very hot temperatures in the summer. Most Cattleya Alliance plants will withstand a wide range of temperatures, but very high and low temperatures, even within their range, will cause them to be stressed and lose leaves.

Genetics will also determine whether the plant will grow large for you or lose leaves once they are a couple of years old. There is little that can be done for this aspect but to determine through trial-and-error which plants are best for your growing conditions and stick to them.

One point to keep in mind is that if you can keep from doing it, it is much better to allow the leaf to drop off naturally than to cut it off. If the leaf will not snap off with light pressure, leave it on until it is ready to come off. The plant will seal the wound through a natural drying process which will keep any pests or disease from using the area to invade the plant.

Oct 012009
 

A couple of years ago, I asked Andy Easton why some of our Catts had black tipped leaves. He said might be a calcium deficiency. Since then I have added 5 Tums tablets to every 20 gallons of fertilize solution. I start softening the Tums several hours ahead of adding the fertilizer, 15 aspirin, and detergent to the mix. Our black tips are gone, and while the calcium is at best in suspension, the particles seem to some how get into the roots.

Dot Henley

Apr 012009
 

by Susan Taylor
Originally published in BellaOnline

Ground cinnamon paste for wounds

Use a paste made of ground cinnamon and a common household glue, such as Elmer’s, to cover and protect wounds on plants so that they will not become infected with fungi. This remedy is for badly damaged plants that you truly want to save after being damaged. The glue will form a  protective barrier and the cinnamon acts as a fungicide.

All purpose cinnamon spray

Cinnamon can also be used in spray formula. Made a mixture of 30 ml of ground cinnamon with 500 ml of alcohol and mix it well. Allow the alcohol mix to steep overnight and then filter to remove the sediment. A coffee filter will do this admirably. Mix 250 ml of the resulting liquid with a liter of water and 10 ml of liquid detergent. Use this as a spray for insects as well as a fungicide.

Always follow the instructions on insecticides

Protect yourself and your plants when applying any kind of product. Some of these products are poisonous to humans or pets as well as to the pests you’re trying to kill. Be especially careful if there are children around and only apply when they are not going to be in the vicinity. It is a good idea to wear protective gloves such as the latex gloves for dishwashing while applying insecticides even if the directions don’t call for them.

Always throw away old potting materials

When repotting, always maintain a clear distinction between old and new potting materials. Throw away any old potting medium which may  contain pests or eggs of pests. One good idea is to spread out old newspaper and fold up and dispose of old medium after it is removed as well as the top layers of paper. You will then have a good sterile environment to put the next plant on. Dip plants in insecticide as well as fungicide before repotting in clean medium and pots.

When you cannot spray plants

An interesting idea I came across the other day was instead of spraying plants, take a plant with insect problems and tie it up in a plastic bag with a new dog or cat flea collar. Leave unsealed in the shade for a day to kill
insects.

To get rid of fungus gnats

To get rid of those annoying little fungus gnats put one of those mosquito larvae killing wafers in water in a bucket. Use this water for your normal watering. The insecticide in the water will take care of the larvae of the
gnats which eat decaying matter in the medium.

Rotate Vandas and sympodials

In order to get your Vandas and Ascocendas to grow upward rather than to one side, rotate them a half turn once a month. This will encourage nice upright growth as well as give the inflorescence a nice presentation.

Color Coded Spray Bottles

Use different colored spray bottles for different kinds of sprays—one for plain water, one for fungicide, one for an insecticide, etc. Using different colors makes it more difficult to spray with the wrong thing. Most garden centers today offer different shape, size and color bottles.