Winter Orchid Dreaming

 Winter
Jan 012010
 

by Susan Taylor
Originally published in BellaOnline

Orchid growing is somewhat like any other gardening – January and February are very slow months! Unlike outside gardeners in temperate climates, though, we are constrained by the problems of cold weather shipping and delivery rather than the growth of most of the plants we grow. During the coldest months, many growers will take orders for later delivery, but hesitate to ship even with cold packs during the coldest months.

So now is the time for us to look through those catalogs, review what plants we already have and how they’re growing and look seriously at what we might want to grow for the coming year. Each of us has slightly different conditions and some plants grow better than others under those conditions.

What is really doing well for you? If you like them, consider growing more of those kinds of plants. Look through the catalogs and see if you can find similar crosses and the chances are that they will also do well under your conditions.

What is really not doing well? If this is something that you really love and want to grow, then look at your conditions and see if you can change them slightly so that the plants will do better. Until you figure that out, it’s probably better not to buy any more of them.

Is there something new that you want to grow and see if it will do for you? Develop an “Orchid Wish List” to take with you to orchid shows. If they are displayed there, talk to the owner and find out what kind of conditions he or she has to get some idea how that particular orchid likes to grow. Check out pricing from online vendors before you go so that you will have an idea of what you should be willing to pay for a plant. Many times it is less expensive to buy at a show because you’re not paying extra for shipping.

Take some time to clean up your growing area and your plants. Stake new growth and clean up old dry growth. Wipe down leaves to remove residue and dust and allow the plant to better absorb the available light. This will also help remove any pests that have moved into your plants. Make a list of the plants that you are going to need to repot in the spring and make sure that you have the supplies necessary to do so. Buying supplies at this time of year is a good investment. There are generally sales from the vendors who cannot ship plants during the cold months.

Rate Your Growing Skills

 Caring, Orchidophilos
Jan 012010
 

ORCHIDOPHILOS by Tom Sheehan

Frequently I am asked by an orchidist how to tell whether or not he/she is doing a good job of growing his/her plants. Actually, this is a good question, because often times we look at our plants and wonder how well they are thriving, but have nothing for comparison. It is relatively easy to tell whether your plants are up to par or not. Color is always a good positive factor because the intensity of green will vary among genera, with some well grown plants dark green and some almost yellow green. But there is an excellent indicator that everyone can use to evaluate plants.

With sympodial orchids, e.g., Cattleya, Dendrobium, the new growth in mature plants should be equal to or larger than the height of the last growth, while in unflowered seedlings it should always be larger. If the newest growth is smaller, then you are not doing a good job of growing, or the plant may be suffering from soluble salt damage or possibly some pest problem and it is time to do something.

In monopodial orchids e.g., Vanda, Phalaenopsis, the situation is very similar. With these plants the spread of the new leaves should be equal to or greater than the last mature leaf or set of leaves. Again, in seedlings you expect each new leaf to be larger until the plant is mature and flowering, at which time the new leaves should be of equal size from then on. A well grown large strap leaf Vanda plant should have all the leaves the same length so the leaf tips would all touch a stick held perpendicularly to the leaves. I should point out that you are comparing mature leaves, not developing leaves. Consequently, you must be able to recognize the difference for all the genera you are growing. Once you do this the rest is easy.

Another problem that occurs in the fall of the year is the formation of brown papery sheaths on some Cattleya plants. Novices often cut them off, thinking they have lost the flowers, and this is not so. Those species and their hybrids that have the “mossiae” growth cycle, e.g., trianaei, labiata, produce their flowers from within the papery bracts. These plants flower from early fall through May, The other group, known as “gigas” flower in spring and summer while the sheaths are green and succulent. So be careful before you cut off any papery sheaths this fall when checking your plants. Gently squeeze the sheath and you will feel the buds inside.