2009 – Page 2 – South Florida Orchid Society

Lubber Grasshoppers

Pests

Aug 012009

Lubber Grasshoppers by Susan Jones

One of the largest and slowest moving grasshoppers, lubbers can attain 3 inches (7.5 cm) in length at maturity, and cause a great deal of damage to an orchid collection. Different species are found in various geographic regions of the United States: eastern lubbers (Romalea guttata, found from central North Carolina west through southern Tennessee, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Arkansas to Texas and throughout Florida), horse lubbers (Taeniopoda eques, native to Texas and Arizona, down into Mexico), plains lubbers (Brachystola magna, most commonly found on the prairies of the western part of the United States and Mexico) and southeastern lubbers (Romalea microptera, which spread out from North Carolina to Florida, west to Louisiana and northeast to Tennessee).

DESCRIPTION

Although there is some variation among the different species, all are flightless and quite large as grasshoppers go, with females attaining greater length at maturity than males. Distinctively colored and patterned, the immature ones have different coloration from their adult counterparts. All share the chitinous exoskeleton typical of grasshoppers that helps protect them from predators and prevent dehydration.

Eastern lubbers are flightless, although not wingless. They move from place to place primarily by walking, but are capable of jumping short distances. Adults of this species are yellow, spotted black, with red coloration under their wings, and reach 2⅜ (6 cm) to more than 3 inches (8 cm) in length.

Unlike some of their less athletic cousins, horse lubbers have long hind legs that allow them to cover distances of up to 20 times their own length in a single jump. These lubbers are black at maturity, with yellow markings and black-and-orange-striped antennae, and attain a length of 2½ inches (6.4 cm).

Flightless plains lubbers are also capable of jumping from several inches to several feet using their oversized hind legs. Their bodies are reddish brown in color, marked with greenish brown. Their wings are colored with ABOVE Southeastern lubber nymphs feeding on landscape foliage. reddish brown and black spots, and they have a row of light-colored dots on their abdomens. The smallest of the lubbers, this grasshopper is still fairly large, reaching up to 1⅝ inches (4 cm) in length as an adult.

Adult southeastern lubbers come in two color schemes: mustard yellow with black markings, the southerners among them with a reddish stripe as well, or black with yellow stripes. They grow to be 2–2¾ inches (5–7 cm) in length, and are flightless.

LIFE CYCLE

After mating, lubbers deposit caches of approximately 25 to 50 eggs, depending on the species, in the ground during the summer. These eggs overwinter underground and begin to hatch out from mid-March to June, depending on the region. In warmer areas, such as the southeastern United States, the hatching is earlier, while for species such as the plains lubbers in the western parts of the country, later spring is the expected arrival time for the young. The wingless nymphs (immature grasshoppers) crawl up out of the soil in groups and begin their search for food. The young lubbers will molt their exoskeletons five times at roughly 15-day intervals before reaching adulthood, when they settle down to breed and begin the cycle anew.

HABITAT AND FEEDING

Although each type of lubber has its preferred plant or plants on which it feeds in its natural environment, all are fairly catholic eaters and, given the opportunity, will usually cause damage to a wide variety of greenery. This includes one’s prized orchids. Young lubbers usually travel in large numbers, swarming and devouring plant material as they go. Knowing which plants they favor can help growers to be on the lookout for these pests; also, keep orchids far away from host plants. Eastern lubbers are most often found in open pinewoods, weedy fields and the vegetation along roadsides. Their preferred foods include the foliage of citrus, vegetables and ornamental plants. Horse lubbers stick to grasslands and oak woods, desert annuals and foliage of perennial shrubs, including mesquite. The plains lubbers hang out in the prairies, roadside vegetation, in vacant lots or at the edges of fields. Their favorite food is sunflowers, but they will also consume various grasses, weeds and many other types of flowers and young cotton plants. Southeastern lubbers frequent roadsides, field edges and gardens, noshing on ornamentals, vegetables and even citrus leaves.

DEFENSIVE CHARACTERISTICS

Lubbers have at their disposal a variety of relatively unpalatable means of defending themselves against threats from other creatures.
The bright coloration and patterning on a lubber’s shell is an aposematic, or warning, pattern to predators that they are unpalatable to downright poisonous. Lubbers ingest and assimilate substances in the plants they consume that, although harmless to humans and the lubbers themselves, are toxic to many predators. These chemicals may kill smaller creatures such as birds or leave larger animals quite ill after ingesting a lubber.

If their color pattern is insufficient to warn off a would-be predator, the lubbers are capable of secreting a noxious foam while making a loud hissing sound when threatened. In addition, like most grasshoppers, they can also regurgitate a dark brown liquid (commonly called tobacco spit) as a defense.

Lubber adults are colorful and formidable in appearance.

CONTROLS

Chemical control is effective only against the nymph stage. There are several insecticides toxic to grasshoppers that are registered for use on ornamentals, fruits and vegetables, such as Cygon. These are not, however, approved for use on orchids. If control of the young lubbers on host plants for which the insecticides are approved is the goal, chemical control is an option. Otherwise, these pests are best eradicated by hand. Because most species are fairly slow moving and all are harmless to humans, they can be handpicked from a favored plant or netted. Various orchid growers recommend their own preferred lubber-control weaponry, including a brick, shoe, broom or even the broad side of a machete, but squashing them does seem to be the favored approach.

Reprinted from the APRIL 2004 issue of Orchids — The Bulletin of the American Orchid Society. Copyright American Orchid Society — www.aos.org

Snails and Slugs on Orchids

Pests

Jul 012009

by Susan Taylor
Originally published in BellaOnline

Snails and slugs are a constant problem for outdoor and greenhouse growers of orchids. They love the open medium of bark used for orchids and can cause great damage to new growths of both roots and plant tops. Most of the time the first sign that there is trouble will be an almost ruined plant, they will invade that fast. It is important to get rid of these pests before bringing in plants for the winter.

The first suggestion, as always, is that prevention is the best solution to the problem. There are as many ideas on preventing the critters as there are people who battle them. One ex-military expert suggests a “perimeter defense, local defense and all out war” approach. Others advocate diatomaceous earth (DE), others various slug and snail pellets. My personal prevention regimen involves a monthly application of approximately a tablespoon DE to each pot; scattering a snail and insecticide inside on the floor of the greenhouse and outside the perimeter; and using the “beer in a container” catch approach. I personally can’t stand having to mess with the dead pests in the beer approach, but periodically I will do so just to get those that have escaped the other ways. Please note, never put slug or snail bait in your orchid pots, always put it around them on the ground.

Other recommended approaches are to use a .5 to 1 inch (3 centimeter) strip of copper around the bottom of all benches or approaches to the orchid location. This can also be used around the bottom of pots. The theory is that the snails and slugs will not cross the copper because it gives them a very slight shock which they dislike.

A recent test confirmed that spraying with a 1% caffeine solution (strong brewed coffee has about .5% caffeine) will kill 65-90% of snails present in potting medium without harming orchids. This can be done by spraying or by pour-through. Caffeine can also be purchased in purified form for agricultural use and mixed with water for this purpose.

In almost all instances a combined approach always works better than relying on just one preventative or poison. There will be some of the pests that will get past your defenses, but few will make it past two or three.

Snail and slug poisons vary by state, so you should consult with your local nursery to determine what is available in your area. As noted above, never put any of these products in your pots — many of the products can be toxic to orchids. Most of the products are granular and will attract the pests from the medium where they hide during the day. Be sure that you read all directions in relation to children and pets. If you chose to use the DE method, be sure to use a mask when applying so that you do not inhale any of the product. Beware of dogs and children who might inhale also.

A Tribute to Trudy Fennell

Floridians

Jun 012009

Trudy Fennell, a legendary and beloved figure in the orchid world, passed away on June 2, 2009, after a brief illness. She was born in Miami, Florida, on April 6, 1926. She married the celebrated owner of Fennell’s Orchid Jungle, Thomas A. Fennell, Jr., on March 8, 1950. Trudy was not born into an orchid family as was her husband, but destiny brought them together during the period when she was the first floor manager of Burdine’s Department Store in Miami. Tom, with his usual flare for orchid displays, had established an orchid kiosk at Burdine’s, and as a consequence, the couple met over orchids.

From that point until Tom’s death in 1988, Trudy was a constant figure on the orchid scene. She along with her children were engaged in setting up the legendary displays at the Miami shows, attending the World Orchid Conferences including the first one, but Trudy was best know as the “orchid greeter.” Trudy met every visitor who came to the Orchid Jungle in Homestead, Florida, with her ever-present smile and enthusiasm for life. She led tours, answered untold numbers of questions about orchids, but she was also a devoted wife and mother who embraced a deep faith. Trudy became a successful retailer of all things orchids when she opened her own business at the Orchid Jungle, The Patio Gift Shop, which had five immense live oak trees growing through it. Her inventory was diverse and ranged from local orchid creations to the finest European imports.

Trudy never met a stranger and could engage in conversations with total strangers just as though she had known them all her life. During the last WOC, she attended a private party honoring the 125th anniversary of the founding of Vacherot and Lecoufle, where she had the opportunity to be with many people that she had not seen in years. In the typical Trudy fashion, she went up to each person, gave them a hug, and began a conversation just as though they had see each other the day before. I will treasure having known her and will always cherish what she said that wonderful night during the WOC, “orchids are just so special aren’t they, they bring such wonderful and interesting people together.” Trudy will be missed by all that knew her. Requiem Aeternum

Trudy’s many friends extend condolences to the entire Fennell Family.
Jeff H. Bradley

Summer In South Florida

Summer

May 012009

By Andy Easton, V.P. Life Sciences, Kerry Bromeliads,
Homestead, FL

These are a few things, in no particular order, that you might wish to consider that could help your plants through what is often a very difficult growing season in South Florida.

It’s hot and the plants are growing like crazy so we need to fertilize more, right? Wrong! The two periods of most rapid growth in our area are Spring and Fall. When the days and nights get uncomfortably hot for us, they are too hot for many of our orchids too. The respiration rate will exceed the photosynthate storage rate for much of the 24 hour period and consequently, just like when we go on a diet and exercise more to lose weight, our plants will actually struggle to hold their own or may even go backwards. In the months of July, August and September, it is prudent to actually feed at a lower concentration and also to make sure you are feeding a formulation that is at least even concentrations of Nitrogen and Potassium and preferably with a Potassium level around 25% higher than Nitrogen. Don’t skip feeds however as the higher temperatures mean that fertilizer is quickly metabolized by media microflora. Now if you just grow Vandaceous types these comments are less applicable but anything in the Cattleya Alliance will benefit from the above regime.

Be sure too that you water and fertilize in the early or late hours, I personally prefer morning but the orchid leaf stomata are open at either time. It is not necessary to get into a debate about foliar feeding here but I am sure the elevated bacterial leaf presence in warmer months greatly assists in plant nutrition by converting fertilizer into gaseous ammonia which is then readily taken up through the leaf stomata. Research has shown that Phalaenopsis stomata are open at night but be careful watering them in the evening as crown rot will be a problem. People say to me that if Phalaenopsis can survive in their natural environment where it rains every day in Summer and often in the evening, why can’t they behave the same in cultivation? There are two main reasons why we run into problems with cultivated plants. Firstly. The plant orientation is all wrong. Phalaenopsis in nature develop so that the leaves drain water away from the crown. We place them in pots and all the water essentially runs backwards and accumulates in the crown, just where we don’t want it at nighttime. Secondly rainwater is a different “cat” to well or city water with added fertilizer and it is much less likely to support pathogen growth.

Plant disease researchers have found that elevated levels of certain nutritional elements like Magnesium will contribute to a plant’s ability to resist fungal and bacterial infection. Epsom Salts (Magnesium Sulfate) is a cheap and effective source of this critical plant nutritional element. Once a month in Summer, instead of watering and feeding, water and feed Epsom Salts. It doesn’t mix well will fertilizers so should be used on its own and even if you don’t have the capacity to liquid feed it, you can even apply it as a topdressing without any risk of injury to your plants. Feed at the rate of a level teaspoon per gallon or top-dress at the rate of a level teaspoon per six inch pot.

There are oils and oils. Some people have done major damage to their plants by using the wrong oil at the wrong time of day or year! But, the paraffinic oils like Ultra-Fine which can be purchased for around $11.00 a quart at Home Depot are wonderful for home growers. I spray all my plants in the greenhouse at home with Ultra-Fine every month, year round. You have no toxicity issues to worry about so you can spray in your swimsuit if you wish and these paraffinic oils will really keep mites, scale, thrips and mealy bug on the back foot. If your water is high in Calcium, they will also help keep your plant leaves shiny. I tend to spray in the early hours because it is more pleasant for me but even if the sun is higher in the sky, only the thinnest leaves and most sensitive plants would be likely to be affected, if at all. Caution: with any spray it is always better in terms of efficacy and for systemic uptake, to spray when the stomata are open, i.e. in the cooler hours.

Although summer is not the most pleasant time to be in your greenhouse, make some time each week to do a slow walkthrough. For people who hand water this is not a problem but if you have overhead watering capacity, don’t just water and run!

Things can go bad very quickly in the summer months and a small spot of bacterial infection can become a sorry mess in hours rather than days. Spacing plants and a good fan for night air movement is critical to the prevention of most fungal and bacterial problems. Never let your plant roots come within 18 inches of the soil. The ubiquitous Fusarium wilt fungus is just waiting to attack your prize orchid and it is essentially, incurable. Just a splash of water which hits the soil under your bench and then bounces up onto a healthy Vanda root can spell disaster. Whenever I see people placing plants on the ground for easy watering, I just shudder. It is one of the most dangerous and unhygienic practices for your orchid plants.

Good growing! Make it through summer and be ready for the pleasures of the Florida Fall with a group of robust and healthy orchids.

How Long to Bloom?

Buying

May 012009

Reprinted from The Fort Lauderdale Orchid Society

Joyce Kelly found this good information in a 1982 Jones & Scully catalog. Pot size in standard size plants can help you guess when the plants may bloom. This is part of that chart:

Pot Size…………Years ‘till Flowering
2”…………………. 3-3 ½
2 ½”……………… 2-2 ½
3”…………………. 1 ½ – 2
4”…………………. 1 – 1 ½
4 ½”……………… 6 months – 1 year
5”…………………. 6 months – 1 year
6”…………………. flowering size

A Short History of Orchids

Curiosity

Apr 232009

The orchid family is not only the largest but one of the most diverse plant flowering families in the world. The orchid was one of the first plants to evolve on earth, it was around in the time of the dinosaur, over 120 million years ago. Given the length of time they have been around it shouldn’t be surprising that there are over 35,000 species with hundreds of thousands of hybrids.

The most famous orchid in the world is the vanilla orchid (planifolia). Coca Cola is the largest customer of vanilla, they use the seed for flavoring. Madagascar is the world’s largest producer. Orchids are very beautiful plants and that is why so much time and care is put into growing them. Vanilla on the other hand is grown for its commercial value rather than for its appearance but it is labor intensive. The vanilla crop is the main source of income for many independent farmers in less developed countries.

World’s Tallest Orchid

Curiosity

Apr 012009

by Susan Taylor
Originally published in BellaOnline

The tallest freestanding orchid is Sobralia altissma from the high forests of Peru. It is reported to grow up to 44 feet or 13.5 meters high in optimum conditions. The bright reddish-purple flowers are up to 6 inches or 15 centimeters across and are displayed in spectacular groups of up to 8 flowers per stem.

World’s Worst Smeling Orchid

Curiosity

Apr 012009

by Susan Taylor
Originally published in BellaOnline

The worst smelling orchid is Bulbophyllum phalaenopsis. We picked this particular Bulbophyllum due to the sheer size of the plant and flower and
therefore the amount of scent it produces. Many other Bulbophyllums produce the same carrion scent as this one, but are much smaller.
Native to New Guinea, the pollinator is a fly which is attracted by the unpleasant odor. Last year, I found a live webcam of an opening
flower — the grower couldn’t stand the smell but wanted to see the flowers opening!

Orchid Growing Tips #15

Caring

Apr 012009

by Susan Taylor
Originally published in BellaOnline

Ground cinnamon paste for wounds

Use a paste made of ground cinnamon and a common household glue, such as Elmer’s, to cover and protect wounds on plants so that they will not become infected with fungi. This remedy is for badly damaged plants that you truly want to save after being damaged. The glue will form a protective barrier and the cinnamon acts as a fungicide.

All purpose cinnamon spray

Cinnamon can also be used in spray formula. Made a mixture of 30 ml of ground cinnamon with 500 ml of alcohol and mix it well. Allow the alcohol mix to steep overnight and then filter to remove the sediment. A coffee filter will do this admirably. Mix 250 ml of the resulting liquid with a liter of water and 10 ml of liquid detergent. Use this as a spray for insects as well as a fungicide.

Always follow the instructions on insecticides

Protect yourself and your plants when applying any kind of product. Some of these products are poisonous to humans or pets as well as to the pests you’re trying to kill. Be especially careful if there are children around and only apply when they are not going to be in the vicinity. It is a good idea to wear protective gloves such as the latex gloves for dishwashing while applying insecticides even if the directions don’t call for them.

Always throw away old potting materials

When repotting, always maintain a clear distinction between old and new potting materials. Throw away any old potting medium which may contain pests or eggs of pests. One good idea is to spread out old newspaper and fold up and dispose of old medium after it is removed as well as the top layers of paper. You will then have a good sterile environment to put the next plant on. Dip plants in insecticide as well as fungicide before repotting in clean medium and pots.

When you cannot spray plants

An interesting idea I came across the other day was instead of spraying plants, take a plant with insect problems and tie it up in a plastic bag with a new dog or cat flea collar. Leave unsealed in the shade for a day to kill
insects.

To get rid of fungus gnats

To get rid of those annoying little fungus gnats put one of those mosquito larvae killing wafers in water in a bucket. Use this water for your normal watering. The insecticide in the water will take care of the larvae of the
gnats which eat decaying matter in the medium.

Rotate Vandas and sympodials

In order to get your Vandas and Ascocendas to grow upward rather than to one side, rotate them a half turn once a month. This will encourage nice upright growth as well as give the inflorescence a nice presentation.

Color Coded Spray Bottles

Use different colored spray bottles for different kinds of sprays—one for plain water, one for fungicide, one for an insecticide, etc. Using different colors makes it more difficult to spray with the wrong thing. Most garden centers today offer different shape, size and color bottles.

How to Make an Orchid Tree

Caring

Mar 012009

An orchid tree is a variation on mounting orchids, except you’re putting many orchids on a branch or branches to give it a completely natural look. The concept can be used in those areas of the country where orchids can be grown outdoors most of the year, but must be protected from a few frosts during the winter months; or if you are lucky enough to have a large enough greenhouse, brought inside during the colder winter months. It would also work wonderfully under lights in an alcove or under stairs area that proves to be a difficult place to decorate.
To start out, you must select the base for your tree, or build a wire mesh and cover it with cork. Remember that if you’re going to be moving the structure it cannot be too heavy. And you will need to make sure that it will not topple over when planted. Generally a tripod arrangement will ensure enough stability.

Attach the larger plants to the bottom for aesthetic reasons and the smallest on the upper portions. Think of the size of the branches on a tree, the largest are at the bottom and the smallest at the top. This will also provide extra weight at the bottom to balance the weight of the structure.

When choosing plants, be sure to try to pick out plants that will require similar light, temperature and humidity conditions. Depending on how you place your orchid tree, some will obviously get more light than others. Be aware of this when you start arranging the plants you wish to mount. Another factor to consider is flowering times. Do you want all your plants flowering at the same time, or several flowering at the same time throughout the year? And of course, the most fun of all, how are you going to arrange the different colors on the tree?

If possible soak the structure overnight before adding plants, otherwise wet it thoroughly with a hose. Take your plants from their pots, clip off any dead or brown roots and clean up the plants by removing dead sheaths, and back bulbs. Position the plants around the tree and if you want tie them on with a string until you’re satisfied with the arrangement. Then mount as you would any orchid on a mount with sphagnum moss attached with fishing wire against the structure. Then tie on your plant being careful not to cut into the pseudobulbs or roots. I prefer putting a bit of sphagnum on top of the roots too to provide extra moisture to the plants during hot periods. Continue mounting until all your plants are situated as you want them.

Mist thoroughly and place in a humid shaded area for two weeks to a month in order to allow the plants to accustom themselves to their new home. Mist every other day and water as you would any other mounted plant. Gradually move into a sunnier area over the course of about a week as you would for any other orchid.

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